Multisensory moviegoing, part deux: the gourmet’s digest

Celebrate the new year and start of Madison movie season with culturally enriching culinary adventures.

Last year I wrote about the pleasures of coordinating dinner and a movie in Madison. With the myriad dining options available throughout the city, this activity has always been immensely rewarding for me. I’m constantly looking for new ways to explore the relationship between cinema and gastronomy. A perfect film and food pairing really can take a cinematic excursion to the next level, while presenting an opportunity to be creative and mindful about one’s sensory input. I received a lot of positive feedback on that initial article on the subject, and I’m glad that people seemed to enjoy reading it as much as I enjoyed writing it.

Since then, I have continued to see movies on the big screen and to seek out complementary dining experiences whenever possible. I would like to continue sharing some of my favorite combinations from the past 11-plus months before offering a handful of delicious new suggestions. Perhaps these combos will serve as inspiration for other cinephiles to start practicing the art of food and film pairing. This multisensory approach to moviegoing can be incredibly satisfying and the possibilities are practically endless.     

Last March, some friends and I went to see Dune: Part Two (2024) in IMAX on opening night at AMC Fitchburg—an epic visual feast that called for a similarly abundant meal. We had dinner at Dhaba Indian Bistro (which is right down the road from the movie theater), partaking of an array of spicy curries, appetizers, and naan that provided adequate sustenance for Denis Villeneuve’s awe-inspiring Hollywood spectacular about intergalactic jihad waged on a remote desert planet. Despite its nearly three-hour runtime, I maintained good water discipline throughout the movie and didn’t take even a single break. (I also ate a bag of Trolli Sour Brite Crawlers in honor of Shai-Hulud.) 

Before a rare screening of Kathryn Bigelow’s dystopian tech-noir thriller Strange Days (1995) on 35mm, I ate dinner at Rising Sons Thai Restaurant on State Street. The film’s intense opening POV sequence takes place in a Thai restaurant that somewhat resembles Rising Sons, which opened in 2000, shortly after the period when Strange Days is set (New Year’s Eve in 1999). Dining here and then heading straight to the theater almost felt like a virtual reality experience.

On Palm Sunday, I coincidentally happened to catch Immaculate (2024), a sensational Catholic horror film starring Sydney Sweeney as a nun who joins a remote convent in the idyllic Italian countryside. Naturally, I went to Salvatore’s Tomato Pies on Livingston Street and ordered a Negroni, warm marinated olives, and bucatini with Sartori SarVecchio, house red sauce, parsley, and meatballs. With the prevalence of deep red in the restaurant’s interior, it was truly a match made in heaven.

Other successful marriages of food and film from last spring include: Challengers (2024) and churros from Cinn City Smash; kimchi and pork dumplings, Dolsot Bibimbap, banchan, and soju at 5 Star Korean BBQ before Park Chan-wook’s neo-noir vampire film Thirst (2009); and a taste of Taiwan—popcorn chicken and Tainan braised pork over rice—at Taiwan Little Eats before A Touch Of Zen, King Hu’s 1971 epic martial arts masterpiece. I munched a Reuben and drank a pint of dark beer at Stalzy’s Deli before the French post-apocalyptic pitch-black comedy Delicatessen (1991). (Unfortunately, this turned out to be the last sandwich I ever ate at Stalzy’s, because its dining room abruptly closed last November. But it was delicious and one really couldn’t ask for a more appropriate meal and movie pairing.) And, over the summer, I had a lavish feast and a couple of Ketel One Martinis at Maharani before a sneak preview of the ultraviolent Indian action extravaganza Kill (2023) at the Cinematheque. 

Last fall, I continued to heighten my senses with more delectable film and food combinations. Spicy beef noodle soup at Ruyi Hand-Pulled Noodle before Only The River Flows (2023)—a mesmerizing, labyrinthine neo-noir thriller set in 1990s rural China. Lomo Saltado at Estacion Inka before Werner Herzog’s Fitzcarraldo (1982)—a legendary film about an unhinged music lover determined to bring opera to the jungles of Peru. Chicken Sikar, roti and “daaaaaal!” at Himal Chuli with Quentin Dupieux’s absurdist biopic Daaaaaalí! (2023). A Chicken Kebab Plate at The Mediterranean Joint (which is owned by two brothers from Turkey) before Levan Akin’s Crossing (2024)—a richly textured portrait of contemporary Istanbul.

I enjoyed A Limo Ride in Jalisco—a shot of El Tesoro Reposado Tequila and a can of Tecate Mexican Lager—at the Robin Room and Enchiladas Verdes at Taqueria Guadalajara before  The Apprentice (2024)—Ali Abbasi’s lurid, engrossing biographical drama about how Donald Trump became a ruthless real-estate mogul under the tutelage of a closeted gay lawyer, Roy Cohn. (A Paloma cocktail also would have been appropriate, as Cohn drinks this in the film.) Most recently, for my own Cinesthesia screening of Naked Lunch (1991) at Central Madison Public Library, I gobbled a real tasty turkey sandwich at the ’90s-themed cafeteria Hot Lunch.

As movie theaters are once again in awards-season mode, and venues around campus and downtown are thankfully resuming their usual frequency of screenings after a brief wintertime hiatus, I have been thinking about harmonious combinations of cuisine and cinema. Here are some fresh suggestions for specific dinner pairings with upcoming film events. Feel free to use these ideas as a blueprint for planning your own journeys in cinematic gastronomy. Bon appétit!

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A Traveler’s Needs with Bibimbap and makgeolli at Sol’s on the Square (117 E. Mifflin St.)

If you plan to attend the screening of South Korean auteur Hong Sang-soo’s recent deadpan comedy of manners A Traveler’s Needs (2024) at Madison Museum of Contemporary Art on Wednesday, February 5 at 7 p.m., then you might consider dining at Sol’s on the Square—a restaurant actually just off the Square serving homestyle Korean favorites, including bibimbap, bulgogi, and noodle bowls in an elegant, cozy, Zen-like setting.

The film stars the inimitable Isabelle Huppert (in her third collaboration with Hong) as Iris, an enigmatic woman in Seoul who teaches French to make ends meet while indulging her thirst for makgeolli—a milky, unfiltered rice wine. For a more immersive cinematic experience, be sure to order a bottle of makgeolli at the restaurant to imbibe with your meal. (Thankfully, Sol’s on the Square is within walking distance of the MMoCA, so no need to worry if you get a little tipsy.)

Hong’s films are known for extended sequences of people eating and drinking—like his most recent In Water (2023), where a trio of characters share pizza, sandwiches, and sashimi—so going out to an authentic South Korean restaurant before A Traveler’s Needs seems like an obvious choice. I recommend ordering the internationally popular mixed rice dish Bibimbap, my go-to entrée when I’m dining out for Korean food. And order it in a hot stone bowl for crispy rice.

Vegan/Vegetarian alternatives: Sol’s offers a Kimchi Tofu Deopbap (rice bowl) while several noodle dishes, including Kalguksu (thick wheat noodles) and Udon (Japanese style noodles), can be made with vegetables. Bibimbap can also be ordered with tofu instead of meat. But I would check with your server to ensure that dishes do not contain any meat or animal products.

One Of Them Days with a Kali Mist (Spicy Club) at Cheba Hut “Toasted” Subs (453 W. Gilman St.)

Although I haven’t seen it yet, One Of Them Days (2025), the raunchy new buddy comedy and throwback to Friday (1995), looks absolutely hilarious. The movie stars Keke Palmer and pop star SZA as two best friends in Los Angeles who embark on a wild series of misadventures as they attempt to recoup their squandered rent money and avoid eviction over the course of an eventful day. One Of Them Days is currently playing at Flix Brewhouse, Marcus Point, Marcus Palace, and AMC Fitchburg 18. 

Some kind of fun, affordable, casual fare seems appropriate before (or after) this movie. Cheba Hut “Toasted” Subs, a relaxed sandwich-shop chain, certainly fits the bill. The Madison location just off of State Street greets ravenous, red-eyed customers with nostalgic vintage prints and an image of Kool-Aid Man. It offers local craft beers, has a full liquor bar, and is open until midnight during weekdays and 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. (The music is also frequently on point.)  

Being so close to campus, this place has become a regular stop for me when I need a quick bite before a movie. The creative subs are rather tasty and the playfully cannabis-themed restaurant offers a refreshing alternative to the ubiquitous, interchangeable sandwich shops that have been trendy for what feels like decades now. (Not gonna lie, the bar is also a nice amenity.) I prefer to eat here when I just want to have a good time, and I’m not queuing up to watch a soul-crushing, seven-and-a-half-hour-long arthouse film. Of course it’s an ideal joint to dine at before a stoner comedy. 

My favorite sandwich at Cheba Hut is the Kali Mist (Spicy Club), which consists of roasted turkey breast, bacon, chipotle mayo, jalapeño, avocado, pepper jack, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, and Shake & House dressing with your choice of white, wheat, or signature garlic herb bread. (Ingredients may vary depending on whether or not the sandwich artist is as “toasted” as the subs. No offense to the staff, but I have sometimes wondered if this is actually related to the theme.)

Vegan/Vegetarian alternatives: The menu at Cheba Hut includes a wide variety of imaginative veggie subs, but vegans might be hard-pressed to find anything that will satisfy their munchies.

Seven Samurai with Tonkotsu Ramen, Sui Gyoza, and Edamame at Strings Ramen (311 N. Frances St.)

I have seen Akira Kurosawa’s breathtaking humanist epic Seven Samurai (1954) three times on the big screen, and it never gets old. Most recently, in December of 2019, I saw a 35mm print of Seven Samurai at the Cinematheque in a packed auditorium. Despite its runtime of three hours and 27 minutes, this film simply demands to be seen in a theater with an audience because it’s always so much fun. 

Kurosawa’s iconic masterpiece tells the story of a defenseless village in 16th-century Japan whose inhabitants live in constant fear of marauding bandits. The desperate villagers thus enlist the services of seven wandering warriors to protect them. Seamlessly blending philosophy and entertainment, Seven Samurai captivates viewers with its magnificently nuanced performances, revolutionary action photography, profound insight into the human condition, and warm sense of humor. At once an emotional roller-coaster ride, a landmark of Japanese cinema, and a timeless evocation of heroism, Kurosawa’s uplifting, visually spectacular work of art is one of the greatest and most influential films ever made, generating countless copycat films and Western remakes.

True movie fans will be granted the chance to view a new 4K DCP restoration of Seven Samurai on Saturday, February 8, at 7 p.m. at the Cinematheque (4070 Vilas Hall). Of course traditional Japanese fare seems particularly appropriate before this grand historical swordplay film. With its close proximity to the auditorium, extremely quick service, and high-quality ingredients, Strings Ramen Shop—a boutique noodle chain out of Chicago—would definitely be an excellent choice. 

Strings focuses specifically on ramen, offering four types of broth and making fresh noodles using a noodle maker imported straight from Japan. Start the meal with an order of Sui Gyoza (boiled dumplings with spicy ponzu sauce). You can choose from chicken, pork, shrimp, or vegetable filling. I recommend Tonkotsu Ramen—a creamy bone-based broth made from Kurobuta pork, a special type of pork that comes from the Berkshire pig. Topping choices include Kurobuta Loin, Kurobuta Belly, or Spicy Clam and Pork.

Bowls of ramen are served with mayu (black garlic oil), sesame seed, scallions, nori, menma (fermented, seasoned bamboo shoots), kikurage (wood ear mushrooms), soft-boiled egg, and médaillons of succulent pork tenderloin floating in a rich, hearty stock. In my opinion, ramen remains one of the best dishes to have before a longer film because it is clean, flavorful, and nourishing, yet not too heavy or hard to digest. You certainly cannot go wrong with any of the authentic broths at Strings, but I feel like the thick, velvety texture of tonkotsu ramen would be especially well suited to the visual and thematic richness of Seven Samurai. And I like the idea of eating Kurobuta Loin before a Kurosawa film because of the alliteration. Appropriately, the last time I wrote about the film, I likened Kurosawa to a consummate chef, “patiently allowing the various ingredients of this sumptuous cinematic feast to simmer until the final hour and a half.”

Pro tip: if you make a post on any social media with a photo of your food and use the hashtag #stringsramen, you get free edamame for the table or Ajitsuke Tamago (marinated lava egg).

Dumplings and ramen are also among my all-time favorite comfort foods, and they usually elicit feelings of deep contentment, not unlike the experience of watching Seven Samurai with a large audience. Whenever I see this film with other people in a theater, cozy feelings of camaraderie seem to gradually develop throughout the audience, as though everyone present were engaged in the heroic struggle so vividly depicted. The fact that so many cinephiles are willing and eager to sit through such an epic film time and again is surely a testament to the enduring power and almost universal appeal of Seven Samurai. For me, this provides a kind of spiritual nourishment.

According to the menu, a bowl of ramen should only take about 10 minutes to eat. This leaves diners with plenty of time to walk the approximately seven minutes to 4070 Vilas Hall and get in line early for the screening, which will almost certainly be packed because of the movie’s popularity.

If you find yourself hungry again after the event, or if you are looking for a place to socialize and bask in the afterglow of Seven Samurai, then you may wish to head over to Izakaya Kuroyama, a new Japanese bar and restaurant at 419 State Street that opened its doors in early January, offering Japanese street food, craft cocktails, beer, and sake. The word “izakaya” translates to “stay-drink-place” and it can be compared to a casual American pub or Spanish tapas bar. The establishment stays open until 2 a.m. every weekday and until 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Vegan/Vegetarian alternatives: Unfortunately, Strings is not a suitable dining option for vegans, because the restaurant uses 100% homemade egg noodles. None of the broths are vegetarian, but the shoyu ramen (seaweed dashi with soy sauce) can be made vegetarian upon request. (There is fish in the soy sauce.) If you’re willing to try Hell Ramen, then a vegetarian option is available.

On Becoming A Guinea Fowl with Beef Pastels (Fataya) and Choukouya de Poulet (Chicken Suya) at Les Délices De Awa (2045 Atwood Ave.)

As part of its consistently popular Premieres series, Cinematheque will present British-Zambian filmmaker Rungano Nyoni’s surreal and darkly funny sophomore effort On Becoming A Guinea Fowl (2024) on Thursday, February 20 at 7 p.m. in 4070 Vilas Hall. The screening comes ahead of the film’s scheduled release in the United States on March 7 by A24. A 2018 Wisconsin Film Festival selection, Nyoni’s striking, multilayered debut feature, I Am Not A Witch (2017), tells the story of an 8-year-old Zambian girl accused of being a witch. After a seven-year absence, Nyoni returns with another film set in her native country, this time about a thirtysomething woman who discovers her uncle’s dead body on the roadside while driving home from a costume party. As funeral proceedings begin, long-buried secrets of her middle-class family soon come to light.

Based on the strength of the trailer, On Becoming A Guinea Fowl definitely ranks as one of my most eagerly anticipated films of the Cinematheque premiere series this spring. In view of the fact that opportunities to experience African cinema on the big screen in Madison are few and far between, the local premiere of Nyoni’s latest feature feels like a special occasion that should be celebrated with a culturally significant culinary adventure.

Of course there are no Zambian restaurants in Madison that I know of, and only a handful of African eateries. Fortunately, a relatively new establishment at 2045 Atwood Ave. (the former location of Monsoon Siam) has been bringing West African cuisine and culture to Madison’s east side for almost a year now. Les Délices De Awa, named for owner Awa Sibi, opened in May 2024. Sibi, who grew up in Côte d’Ivoire, moved to Madison in 2013 and started the business as a catering company in 2018 before opening the brick-and-mortar space. The restaurant serves authentic dishes from Senegal, Nigeria, and her native country in an intimate and welcoming atmosphere adorned with many vivid paintings depicting West African women.

During my recent visit to Les Délices De Awa on a wintry Wednesday evening, I felt immediately transported to another world. While the dining room was empty, the restaurant was filled with the sounds of cooking, lively kitchen conversation in French, and eclectic, upbeat tunes from around the world, including French R&B, Nigerian dance-pop, Congolese rumba, and Malian wassoulou music. Three or four cooks at a time could be seen busily preparing various dishes in the open kitchen, making everything by hand with the freshest ingredients. The owner herself greeted me warmly when I entered. It almost felt as though I were at the house of someone cooking dinner for me. The vibes are casual and diners order at the counter after perusing the menu at a table.

I decided to try Kinkeliba Tea, a West African herbal infusion prepared with kinkeliba leaves that helps stimulate appetite and has several health benefits. (The name translates to “health tree.”) It had a rather pleasant woody flavor and was served with lemon and sugar on the side. I added lemon, but left it unsweetened. For an appetizer, I ordered Beef Pastels (or fataya)—deep-fried crispy hand pies filled with seasoned cooked ground beef, peas, and carrots, accompanied by a spicy tomato sauce flavored with onions and garlic. These were ridiculously tasty; I ate all three. 

My entrée was Choukouya de Poulet (Chicken Suya): tender, smoky, and spicy grilled chicken marinated in a flavorful blend of spices and combined with chunks of tomatoes and onions. This was definitely some of the most well-seasoned chicken I’ve ever eaten. To round out the meal, I added a side of riz gras (or “fat rice”), a variation on jollof rice. Everything was simply delightful. 

Although the Republic of Zambia is located in Southern Africa and there are apparently no direct connections between On Becoming A Guinea Fowl and Les Délices De Awa, I believe dining at Sibi’s establishment before the movie would be a unique and enjoyable multicultural experience. In a recent article in Isthmus, Sibi says that “Côte d’Ivoire is a hub for diversity,” which is why she doesn’t focus solely on cuisine from her homeland. So this feels like an appropriate pairing.

Besides, the phenomenal food is a compelling reason to support a local restaurant owned by an immigrant woman who has embarked on a long journey to share her vibrant cooking and rich cultural heritage with Madison. This place is a hidden gem; I can’t recommend it highly enough.

Film and food are equally effective ways to expand the mind. Just as the consciousness of a culture can be encoded in its traditional cuisine and transmitted to others through the senses, it can be woven into a film and conveyed with images and sound. In my experience, considering the relationship between what you eat and what you watch will result in a more rewarding time.

Note: if you are planning on dinner at Les Délices De Awa before On Becoming A Guinea Fowl, then I recommend allowing plenty of time to enjoy your meal. You might also want to consider arriving early at the Cinematheque to ensure that you get a seat. The Madison Premieres series has historically been very well-attended and the auditorium often fills up quickly. (Doors open 30 minutes prior to showtime and Les Délices De Awa currently opens at 3:30 p.m. on Thursdays.)

Vegan/Vegetarian alternatives: The options are limited for those who prefer a plant-based diet. But Les Délices De Awa specifically offers vegan/vegetarian bowls with choices including white jasmine rice with tomato stew, jollof rice, beans, fried plantains, and peanut stew with chickpeas.

Bonus offerings: Clueless at home with takeout (or the original “girl dinner”) and Anora with frozen pelmeni 

In case you missed the Sunday afternoon Cinematheque screening of Clueless (1995) on 35mm last September and the recent one-off showing at Flix Brewhouse on February 1, Amy Heckerling’s iconic ’90s teen comedy—which celebrates its 30th anniversary this year—would be a fitting movie to watch at home around Valentine’s Day.  

Loosely based on Jane Austen’s 1815 novel Emma, Clueless follows the exploits of Cher (Alicia Silverstone), a shallow, affluent, popular, and incurably optimistic high school student in Beverly Hills whose principal interests include fashion, shopping, matchmaking, and her social life. 

Prior to last September, I had never actually seen the movie in its entirety and didn’t realize how hilarious it is and how well it holds up, despite being very much a time capsule of the ’90s. I also noticed that there are a lot of references to food and eating in Clueless. If you are watching the movie at home, then I recommend ordering “some really delicious takeout” from any number of local Chinese restaurants in Madison, depending on where you live. In the film, Cher suggests to her former step brother, Josh (Paul Rudd), that they get takeout for her father (Dan Hedaya), a high-powered attorney and litigator, and his associates, who have been working on a case all night.

Alternatively, you might want to nosh on “two bowls of Special K, three pieces of turkey bacon, a handful of popcorn, five Peanut M&Ms, and like three pieces of licorice” (i.e., the original “girl dinner”). You could even round out the meal with a Snickers bar. (Follow me for more recipes.) 

Whatever you decide to do, just don’t make the disgusting sandwich that Josh makes for himself in the kitchen. He slaps some turkey on white bread and awkwardly spreads mayonnaise on the meat, rather than on the bread. To this day, the scene evidently still causes Paul Rudd to cringe. 

Finally, Sean Baker’s latest film, Anora (2024), has been making the rounds again, and is back in Madison theaters such as AMC Fitchburg for select screenings after being nominated for six Academy Awards, including Best Picture. The gritty, dazzling comedy-drama depicts a whirlwind fairy-tale romance between a Brooklyn sex worker (Mikey Madison) and the son of a Russian oligarch (Mark Eydelshteyn). If you are going to catch one of its last showings on the big screen, then I recommend going out for Russian dumplings at Paul’s Pel’meni (naturally). However, if you want to have a truly authentic food and film pairing, then you should pick up some frozen pelmeni from the restaurant and watch Anora at home. In the movie, an Armenian henchman (Vache Tovmasyan) uses a random bag of frozen pelmeni to nurse a head wound when he can’t find any ice in his employer’s opulent kitchen.